In 1271, the Mongol Kublai Khan took the meaning of "Daya Qianyuan" in the book of changes and changed its national name to "Dayuan". The first unified empire created by ethnic minorities in Chinese history was born. The Mongolian costume, like its country, has also made an important mark in Chinese history. It has distinct northern nomadic characteristics, which is quite different from the clothing system of Han nationality since Tang and Song dynasties. A large number of objects, images and historical documents show that after the fall of the Yuan Dynasty, not only did it not disappear, but also continued to have an impact on the clothing of Chinese society at that time, and this influence continued to the Ming and Qing Dynasties, and even radiated to Korea and Korea.
In the Mongolian and Yuan Dynasties, both men and women wore hats and crowns, which shows the importance of hat crowns in their clothing culture. Because the Mongolians believe that the hat and the head are equally important. "Two people walk, the elder is the top, one person is the top, the hat is the top". Therefore, the hat crown is very important in the clothing of Yuan Dynasty. Today, Sydney mainly wants to talk about the male hat system in Yuan Dynasty and its continuation in Ming Dynasty.
1、 Classification of hats and their use in Yuan and Ming Dynasties
1. Cymbal hat
Cymbal hat is one of the most common hat styles used by Mongolian people in Yuan Dynasty. Its body is round, and the brim is extended and tilted downward. It has a top, so it is named because it is similar to cymbals. From the emperor down to the civilian men wear the hat.
Ye Ziqi's "Cao Mu Zi" records: "officials and people all wear hats, and their eaves or round."
In fact, there was no front brim for this kind of hat. Because Kublai Khan felt the sun glare when he was shooting, Queen CHABI specially made it for him and added a front brim, which is equivalent to the current sun hat.
The cymbal hat the emperor wears is the most luxurious. We can see it in many portraits of the emperors of the Yuan Dynasty.
For example, the portraits of yuanchengzong and yuanwenzong are all wearing white cymbal hat, with a jewelled hat top and gorgeous hat beads tied to the chin, and a napkin hanging behind their heads. The two emperors also wore pearl earrings, and both wore braids hanging on the sides of their ears. Yuan Chengzong also left a bunch of hair in the middle of his forehead. In fact, this kind of hairstyle is almost a copy of the Qidan people's hair style in Liao Dynasty. As early as Mongolia was a large and small tribe, Liao Dynasty had ruled most of the Mongolian grassland, so they had a great influence on the whole early Mongolian society and culture. This hair style was popular in Yuan Dynasty for about a hundred years, from Genghis Khan to Chinese people.
In the Ming Dynasty, cymbal hat formed a number of classes, mostly worn by petty officials and domestic servants. Xuli is a general term for all kinds of specific clerks in ancient Chinese bureaucrats at all levels. They are a group with a large number of people and a great political role. Cymbal hat is widely worn by such a huge social and political group. Its influence on the social dress of Ming Dynasty can not be underestimated. In many notebook novels, cymbal hat is recorded, but they all call it "big hat".
For example, "a group of big hat men in Tsing Yi It's the book office of the chief examiners. "
There is also a class with cymbal hat, which is called "courtyard" or "family" in the literature.
For example, "Xingshi Hengyan" wrote: "these friends are not happy, with five or six families on the road Follow the people and wear fresh clothes and hats. "
In addition to the petty officials and domestic servants, the rest wearing cymbal hat are mostly responsible for delivering documents and letters. It can be seen that the people wearing cymbal hat are not very high in society except the emperor. The reason may be that the brim of the hat is wide, which can protect the sun from the rain, which makes it convenient for these people to work hard outside.
There is a special form of cymbal hat, also known as "big hat" in the literature. Its brim is straight. This kind of special cymbal hat was found in the tombs of Yuan Dynasty, and it continued to the Ming Dynasty. According to various archaeological and literature records in Yuan and Ming Dynasties, this kind of big hat was mostly used by the upper class. Even in the Ming Dynasty, it had become a synonym for officials. It may be because this broad hat looks majestic in appearance, so it is favored by the upper class.
For example, Feng Weimin, a songwriter after the Ming Dynasty, once wrote in his poem manuscript of haifushan Hall: "cool clothes and big hats are worshipped, and when you put on your shoulders, you will fall down."
2. Corrugated cap
The corrugated hat is square, narrow at the top and wide at the bottom. This kind of hat is made of Wisteria or horse tail, which is durable.
Many Mongolians in Yuan Dynasty wore this kind of hat, most of them were middle-class officials. The hat style was high and low, and often inlaid with beads and jade to reflect the superiority of the ruling class. Many illustrations in ancient books reflect that when officials of the Yuan Dynasty went out to visit, their corrugated caps were protected by a small slave servant. For example, an illustration of Shilin Guangji, a daily encyclopedia, shows two Mongolian officials playing "Shuanglu" board game and two servants beside them. One official's corrugated hat is placed beside the seat, while the other is held by a servant wearing a hat of cymbals.
After the Ming Dynasty, the corrugated hat still remained in the Han population. It was worn by the freshmen in Jiajing and also by the rich folk. In the existing murals and paintings of temples in the Ming Dynasty, we can often see the traces of corrugated caps. There are also records of corrugated caps in the Ming Dynasty.
For example, Xu Fu Zuo's "the record of throwing a shuttle: folding teeth" says, "the elder sister only gets off the plane to say a million blessings, and the boy will send a hundred corrugated hats."
"Jin Ping Mei CI Hua" Chapter 8: "panic Wang Po underground picked up, see a new tassel corrugated cap son, put it on the table for him."
"Scholars" for the first time: "I saw a man coming in outside, wearing a corrugated hat, wearing a green cloth clothes."
2、 The use of luxury hat top among the nobles of yuan and Ming Dynasties
The biggest highlight of the men's cap of Yuan Dynasty is the top of the hat, that is, the decoration on the top of the hat. It is mainly popular among Mongolian nobles.
It is recorded in the record of stopping farming in Nancun: during the Dade period of emperor Chengzong of the Yuan Dynasty, a local giant merchant sold a large Ruby produced in Huihui to the government. It weighed about 13 yuan and was valued at 140000 yuan of Zhongtong banknote. It was inlaid on the top of the hat by Chengzong. Later generations of Emperors "inherited the treasure" and wore this ruby cap every year on important occasions such as the new year's day and the birthday festival. After that, gemstones of other colors were also taken.
According to historical records, the emperors of the Yuan Dynasty had all kinds of hats, which were made of various exquisite materials and decorated with various precious jewelry to match the clothes. They should be changed at any time according to various festivals. For example, in winter, the emperor has 11 sets of winter clothes, and the hat is mainly "warm hat" (the warm hat is also known as "Habitat Eagle crown". The eagle is the national spirit of Mongolia, and is also the symbol of the heroic and auspicious nomads. The habitat Eagle crown contains the Mongolian special feelings for eagles and the worship of the power of Eagles). There are 15 sets of summer clothes. The hat is mainly made of various kinds of hat inlaid with Xiangzhu. When the emperor is happy, he will also give his hat or jewelry to his beloved.
For example, it is recorded in Volume 15 of the records of stopping farming in Nancun: one day, when he was the Prime Minister of Henan Province, he went to the countryside one day. The weather was hot. He wanted to change a cool hat and waited with a bamboo hat on his left and right. A gust of wind blew his hat down on a stone and inlaid it on it. The jade given by the emperor was broken. The king of Henan said with a smile, "this is a certain number." And told the left and right attendants to face not to be afraid. This historical material was intended to illustrate the measurement of Bu Lian Ji Ma as the prime minister, but it also provided information for the study of hat system in Yuan Dynasty. The jade on the top of the hat was given by the emperor.
On the contrary, there are very strict prohibitions on the wearing of civilian hats. If they are worn beyond the scope, they will be severely punished. There are many absurd records in the book, such as the legend that Dade used the supervisor Chengzhi in the first year of Dade
"I'm going to present a new black lamb and fine flowers hat with a slant skin. I've seen it before. According to the imperial edict, this leather hat should not be made to people in the future. With people, you die
If a worker makes a new hat for the emperor, he is not allowed to do it again. If he does, he will commit the felony of beheading. It is rare in history that a great emperor attached such importance to hats.
After the yuan and Ming Dynasties changed, Zhu Yuanzhang issued an edict that "the clothing system is as old as that of the Tang and Song Dynasties". In fact, the hat hat hat, hat top and hat tassel were still used. In April of the sixth year of Hongwu, the imperial court made specific regulations on the hat top and bead materials of officials and common people
"One grade and two grades for officials The top and bead of the hat are made of jade Gold is used for the top of the hat, while jade is used for the beads; grade 6 to grade 9 Silver is used for the top of the hat, and agate, crystal and fragrant wood are used for hat beads You don't need a cap. You can use crystal and balsam wood for hat beads. "
The crown of the emperor's hat was often inlaid with large stones. In the middle of the Ming Dynasty, the official's hat can also be used with jewels. The Tianshui iceberg record, which records that Yan Song's father and son were transcribed, has a total of 35 "hat tops". Except for one gold inlaid jade hat top and three gold inlaid bead hat tops, the rest are gold inlaid gems or jewelry hat tops. This shows that the cap top system established in the early period of Hongwu is no longer strictly implemented, and officials can make or purchase various kinds of gem hat tops according to their own financial resources.
In the late Ming Dynasty, there appeared the "high inlaid" hat top. For example, in the 90th chapter of "Jin Ping Mei CI Hua", Lai wang'er sold "gold and silver life" with "Buddha head blue inlaid on the top of hat". As the name implies, the "high inlay" means that the pillar holding the gem is very high and stacked layer by layer, while the gem is standing at the top.
