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Chinas oldest hat, the design is so humanized

2020-07-25 09:03:22
Times

"Don't bow your head, the crown will fall." you must have heard this Internet buzzword. Since "crown" is easy to fall off, what attempts did the ancients try to prevent the hat from falling off?


Two tapes

Fix your hair on top of your head

Before the Qin and Han Dynasties, there was no "hat". Because of different identities, different materials and different occasions, ancient hats had many names, such as crown, crown, Mou, hat, scarf, etc.

Archaeological findings show that as early as the Shang Dynasty, a crown appeared on the head of men. Both the Yuli figures unearthed from the Yin tombs in Anyang and the stone statues of the Shang Dynasty unearthed in sipanmo village in Anyang have hats on their heads.

Different from today's hats, the ancient crowns usually only cover a part of the top of the head, and wearing crowns is more etiquette requirements. Because of the small coverage area, in order to prevent the cap from falling off, the ancients made many delicate designs.


In the book of filial piety, it is said that "one's body is covered with skin, and one's parents receive it." in this sense, ancient men's hair was stored. However, if the hair is long and inconvenient to move, it is necessary to tie up the hair and thus the crown will be produced. At first, the crown was practical and simple, but with the development of society, the shape of crown is more and more, and the design is more and more exquisite.

Hair: that is to keep hair, Yan Youxi's "Shuhua essay · xianshaowu" said: "one day after marriage, see the maid year and hairpin, but not hair."

Hair binding: the hair is tied in a bun on the top of the head, which is also the main hair style of Han men in ancient China. It is recorded in Wu Yuan Yi Yuan by Luo Qi in Ming Dynasty that "Sui people began to tie their hair with ropes".

Zhuanxu, DIHE and Dayu wore elaborate headgear crowns in the work "xiangzan of ancient Chinese" written by Zhu Tianran of Ming Dynasty. The headband can be placed on the top of the bun, and a hairpin can be used to pass through the hole on the side of the crown. There are belts on both sides of the crown, which can tie a knot under the chin. In this way, the hair can not only be tied on the top of the head, but also look solemn.

There are many styles of crowns. Besides the crowned hair, there are many popular crowns in ancient times, such as the "* crown" of imperial censors, the "crown" of the generals and the "Liang Guan" of the minister. Liang Guan is a kind of general name, namely the ritual crown with straight beam. It was originally used by ancient emperors and ministers. It belongs to one liang to eight Liang. It began in Qin and Han Dynasties and was used in later dynasties.

China's oldest hat, the design is so humanized

An opening

Can adjust the size of the hat

The oldest hat we can see today is the Jinde crown of Sanliang about 1300 years ago, which was unearthed from the tomb of Li Ji of the Tang Dynasty. The crown of Jin De was the crown of the emperor's bestowing on his courtiers in the Tang Dynasty.

Liu Su mentioned in "tangxinyu · Lige" that in the eighth year of Zhenguan, Taizong first took on the good crown of wings and granted the noble officials the crown of virtue There are also records about Jin De Guan in Jiu Tang Shu: "Jin De Guan can be divided into three beams, two beams and one beam. According to the system of the Tang Dynasty, officials with three grades or above wore the Sanliang Jinde crown. "


The Sanliang Jinde crown is much larger than the headgear crown and is still made of copper, but it weighs only 400 grams. Sanliang Jinde crown is also closer to the demands of modern hats. It can not only cover all the hair, but also has a certain function of keeping warm.

Depending on the material, the crown can be either leather or precious metal. Sanliang Jinde crown is made of thin gilded copper leaves as the frame of the hat. It is made of leather and decorated with flowers. It is beautiful and practical.

There are three gilded copper beams on the top of the crown and three pairs of hollow round holes on both sides of the cap body. The top pair is used to wear a bun, which serves as a fixed hat. There are two pairs at the bottom, one in the front with ribbons tied to the jaw, and the other with ribbons tied behind the head and hanging on the back.

It is particularly worth mentioning that there is an opening at the lower edge of the back of the hat to separate the brim. The opening is covered with a square hinge, and there are hollow flowers on both sides of the hinge. This is used to moderately adjust the size of the hat. It is the same principle as the size adjusting clasp at the back of the hat today.

The ancients made so many humanized designs for fixing the hat. It's really subtle and shows wisdom.


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