Since ancient times, our ancestors have the tradition of hair storage. According to archaeological discoveries in various places, as early as 5000 or 6000 years ago, the primitive ancestors had their hair in a bun. "Filial piety" said: "the body hair skin, by the parents, dare not damage, filial piety also So no matter how thin the hair is, it can't be cut easily. Over time, out of practical and aesthetic considerations, all kinds of hair bun gradually popular. In this context, ancient men's important fashion single Futou was born. A small piece of Futou, however, represents the thousand year popular history of Chinese men, which eventually prevails in Japan.
In the Qin and Han Dynasties, men were crowned in their twenties, while noble men wore crowns. And the lower status of people, can only bundle towel. Towel also known as a towel, with a silk towel to tie the head, is a kind of headcloth, used to tie hair. The name of the scarves can be found in the biography of Zheng Xuan in the book of the later Han Dynasty: "Xuan is not subject to court clothes, but can be seen with a scarf." It can be seen that Zheng Xuan's elegant fashion dress not only highlights his personality, but also shows the spirit of fighting against tradition, which effectively attracts the attention of the fashion industry, and successfully walks in the front line of the trend of the prevalence of scarf.
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According to Yang Xiong's dialect, the name of ZhangJin is from riluotou, the suburb of Qin and Jin Dynasties in Western Shaanxi, rimotou between Jiangxiang and Jiangxiang in Western Chu, and rizitou between Zhao and Wei in Hebei Province In the Eastern Han Dynasty, it was most common for civilian men to wear scarves. The legendary rap figurines unearthed from the Han Dynasty tomb in Tianhui mountain, Chengdu, Sichuan Province, have two sharp horns on their foreheads.
During the Wei, Jin, southern and Northern Dynasties, scholars did not stick to etiquette, and the custom of binding their heads with scarves was very popular. According to the Yupian written by King Gu Ye of the Southern Dynasty, it is recorded that "the scarf is also worn. This is to wipe things, later generations wear it on the head. " Relying on the traditional headgear of Xianbei nationality, Zhou Wudi, the fashion pioneer of the Northern Zhou Dynasty, improved the scarf by cutting out four feet from the square cloth and extending it into a wide band. When wrapping the hair, the napkin is covered on the top, the back two feet are wrapped forward, tied on the forehead, and the front two feet are wrapped to the back of the head, and the knot is drooping. The advantage of this design is that the two corners are tied in the back of the head and naturally float down to give a sense of elegance; the other two corners are tied on the top of the head to tie the bun. Futou was officially born.
In the Tang Dynasty, Futou ushered in a prosperous era of great development and prosperity, which complemented the popular men's round collar robe of Tang Dynasty. Futou can be seen everywhere in the twelve hours of Chang'an. In the prosperous Tang Dynasty, high crown e-bun was popular in the society, so towel came into being. Towel is the lining of Futou, which is woven with ramie, rattan grass, bamboo strips or horsetail. Feng Yan described in Feng Shi Wen Jian Ji that "Fu Tou is not covered with scarves; it is like the ancient Guan's Yao also." After tying their hair, Tang people first put on towel and then Futou. The shape of Futou is determined by the height of towel. On this basis, Futou style is constantly changing.
Futou head in the back of the two belts, known as Futou feet. The texture is light and thin, naturally falling is "soft foot Futou"; the two feet are slightly straight, slightly upward is "hard foot Futou". In addition, according to the length of Futou, it can be divided into "long foot Futou" and "short foot Futou".
During the Wude period of Gaozu in Tang Dynasty, "flat head small sample towel" was popular, and the top of Fu turban was mostly flat. With the development of the times, the towel is getting higher and higher. In Wu Zetian's time, high-ranking officials were popular lined with high turbans, also known as "kings of the Wu family.". Tang Zhongzong issued a sample of Futou, a senior official of the Tang Dynasty. This kind of image is found in the line carved figures in the stone coffin of Prince Zhang Huai Li Xian. During the reign of emperor Shenlong of Tang Dynasty, Futou feet became round and wide, and there were bamboo sticks and copper wires in the inside. Therefore, Futou feet could be warped, which was called Qiaojiao Futou.
During the period of Emperor Xuanzong of Tang Dynasty, the national strength of Tang Dynasty reached its peak. Futou in this period also became more exaggerated. During the reign of Tianbao, the top of the net is like two round balls. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, "hard wrapped" Futou became popular, that is, the original cloth was fixed to the towel, so as to avoid the trouble of repacking every time you wear it. The previous way of wearing Futou was called "soft wrapping". With this new method of wearing, the original elegant Futou foot lost its practical function and was only retained as decoration. This kind of Futou is also called "hard foot" and "Zhanjiao".
During the Five Dynasties, Pingjiao Futou became popular. According to the ancient and modern textual research by Wei liaoweng of Song Dynasty, "Futou was used as jewelry from Five Dynasties to Song Dynasty, and lacquer yarn was used for it, and its belt was long horizontally.". "History of Song Dynasty · Yufu Zhi" also describes the Futou style of the Five Dynasties period, "Five Dynasties gradually straight. In the system of the state Dynasty, the monarch and his subjects were able to wear uniform feet The two feet should be flat and iron should be used. This Futou further developed the hard foot Futou in the middle and late Tang Dynasty. The Futou feet were made straight by wire or bamboo sticks for decoration. In addition, Qiaojiao Futou was also widely popular at that time. "Yunlu ManChao" records that "the emperors of the Five Dynasties mostly wrapped up Chaotian Futou, and their two feet were upwarped. They were the masters of the four directions' position. They were all innovative, or they were turned upside down, or like round fans and burnt leaves, and they were combined in front of each other." The head and foot of Fu stand up to the sky, which is quite eye-catching.
In the Song Dynasty, Futou was still the basic clothing for men. From the emperor to the officials, they usually wear Futou. Futou is a "Futou hat" which is lined with wood bone or made of rattan grass and covered with lacquer yarn. Futou style, also ushered in a hundred flowers bloom. Its style has a right angle, board foot, Jiaojiao foot, facing the sky, downwind and so on. Wang Dechen of the Northern Song Dynasty said in the history of Zhushi that Futou has been changing new styles since its appearance, with two feet bent upward, two wide feet, or short sharp angles. There are many styles, each of which is good for everyone.
Among them, the most famous one is the Fangding hard shell Futou, which is a necessary style for emperors and officials of the Song Dynasty. This is the 2.0 version of the hard wrapped Futou in the Tang Dynasty. The shell is made of iron wire or rattan grass, and silk is attached to the shell, and then the surface is painted with black paint to form a square top hard shell. The eye-catching feature of the Futou is that the two feet are made of iron wire to achieve the effect of straightness or upwarping. Generally, it extends horizontally from left to right, up to two feet long. This is the common image of officials in the Song Dynasty.
Futou with square top and hard shell is formed by rolling up the end of Futou head and foot, and the intersection of Futou and Futou forms Jiaojiao Futou. In addition, there are Chaotian Futou and Shunfeng Futou. From the end of Song Dynasty to the first dynasty, all of them were marching forward along the development of Futou since the Five Dynasties.
After the Ming Dynasty seized power from the Mongols, it devoted itself to restoring the traditional Chinese clothing. Zhu Yuanzhang put forward the policy of governing the country from the Zhou and Han Dynasties to the Tang and Song dynasties. Traditional first service ushered in the last peak of development. There is a saying in "guest's superfluous words" of the Ming Dynasty: "so the scholar bureaucrats wear a lot of names, including Han, Jin, Tang, Zhuge, Chunyang, Dongpo, Yangming, Jiuhua, Yutai, Xiaoyao, Shamao, Huayang, Sikai and Yongjin."
During this period, Futou evolved into a black hat. The pattern of WuShaMao inherited the basic form of the late Tang and Song dynasties. Officials often use the black gauze hat made of lacquer yarn, the two sides spread angle, the angle is one foot two inches long. The emperor usually wears a crown with good wings, that is, the black yarn is folded into a towel. Its style is basically the same as that of a black hat. The difference is that the left and right corners are folded upward and stand behind the gauze cap. Yishan crown is made of fine bamboo silk, painted with black paint, lined with red silk and covered with yellow silk. The outer layer is made of double-layer black yarn, so it is also called "black yarn Yishan crown". This kind of crown is usually decorated with gold. The weight of the gold ornament on the Yishan crown in the tomb of Emperor Wanli is more than 300g.
In the Ming Dynasty, most of the taxi people and ordinary people wore Tang scarves, that is, soft winged shawls. Tang towel is a brand-new production of the Ming Dynasty designer, which imitates the traditional Futou. The shape is similar to that of a black hat. There are soft feet on the back of the towel and a pair of jade Towel Rings on the left and right. Because of its elegant and elegant appearance, Tang scarf was deeply loved by the people of Ming Dynasty. "Xingshi marriage biography" records: "I saw a very beautiful young man wearing black yarn Tang towel, emerald blue crepe robe, red shoes, silk stockings."
With the entry of the Qing army, Manchu implemented the cruel policy of shaving hair and changing clothes. Futou, which has been popular for thousands of years, went extinct along with many Han people's clothes.
Futou, which exists in this world, has to mention the Japanese Emperor's liyingguan. Japan has learned a lot from the Tang Dynasty clothing system since the Heian era. In Nara era, the Daiwa court issued the "Dabao decree", which clearly stipulated that the domestic people should imitate the Tang Dynasty style in making clothes. The "liyinguan" worn by the emperor is one of the variants of Futou, which was spread to Japan after its own development. Only one of the "tassels" of Futou foot has been preserved by evolution, and it is upright upward and keeps the characteristics of facing the sky.
This style of Chaotian Futou can also be found in ancient China. According to the Song Dynasty's Yunlu ManChao, "the emperors of the Five Dynasties mostly wrapped Chaotian Futou, with two feet up." The scroll of King Qian's ancestral statue of King Wu and Yue in Zhejiang museum is wearing Chaotian Fu head with two Fu heads and feet upward.
Futou originated from a small Baotou cloth. After thousands of years of evolution, its shape and function become more and more diverse, and finally become a part of the elegant and atmospheric Han people's clothing. This contains the design aesthetics of the combination of virtual reality and static, and the philosophical wisdom of seeking change in balance. Therefore, it can last for a long time.
